Christmas in Goa

Goa retains a rich Portuguese legacy with the dusty crumbling buildings, Mediterranean architecture, and large Catholic cathedrals.  Mixed with the South Indian culture and swaying palms, it makes for an interesting setting.

It was almost “no-Goa” because every train was fully booked beyond January 1^st. and vacant lodging was getting scarce.  In the morning we scrambled for last-minute plane tickets and a place to stay. It wasn’t quite so simple, as nothing ever is in India.

Arrival in the small beach community of Agonda was a dream.  Our home for the next four nights was a rustic shack on the quiet beach, with porch and hammock steps from the water.  The sun crept down the horizon in a blood red giant disk amidst flaming orange streaks.  The night sky opened to bright Orion and thousands of stars, more than I’ve seen in a while.  We slept to the sound of crashing ocean waves.

More than anything, how good it felt to walk around in board shorts and flip-flops again.  The broad white sandy strip was lined with palms, huts, and beach front restaurants.  There were just enough people around to make it feel habited and not so many where it was crowded.  No one bothered you, except the cow that kept intruding on a couple down the beach – they had food with them, and the cow kept following until they left…

The Arabian sea was every bit as nice as it sounds – warm water with consistent sets of slow rolling waves, close enough to shore, and tall enough to spend nearly the entire day boogie-boarding.  I must have caught a hundred good rides on the spongy board rented from the kids.  Every evening, the setting sun put on a spectacular display.

Our neighbors were 2 very cool Israeli girls from Tel Aviv.  They joined us for a star-lit dinner.  The drinks were cold and food spicy -- the atmosphere complete with fresh ocean breezes and the sound of the waves.  As this is India, something perplexing happens.  At 9:30 a dozen khaki-clothed policemen came up, shouted to the owners, and started kicking over signs, tables, and chairs on the beach, all in front of paying customers.  They then proceeded to the next business.  We moved inside and life went on.

Every meal here was fantastic.  The grilled fish and prawns, the Indian food, naan, and tandoori kebabs were all freshly prepared.  There was even a French creperie around.  I saw 2 young children enjoying their dessert, until another pesky cow moved in to beg for a bite.

Holiday lights were strung outside our shack.  Dinner at Shanti restaurant featured fire jugglers on the beach.  The power went out for a while, but the stars shone all that much brighter.  We missed home, but Christmas here was an experience – Indian Midnight Mass celebrated beachside at the old Portuguese Saint Anne’s Church.  Merry Christmas!!!!