Varanasi

For millennia, people have gathered here – many to offer sacrifice and some on their way from this life.  Ever since learning about Benares, it has been my resolve to lay eyes on this ancient city on the banks of the holy river Ganges.  What we saw was life along the misty river, the spiritual and the not-so, the juxtaposition of holy men and aggressive touts, of ritual cleansing and floating garbage, and of funeral pyres and laundry lines.  There was the smell of burning human flesh on logs, ash in the air, and the sight of young children flying kites and taking a swim nearby.  Idle boatmen, rather than pilgrims, lined the steps of the ghats and each and every one offered a boat ride.  Cows and mangy dogs everywhere, relieving themselves on the steps, and humans doing the same.  We sat on the steps of Assi Ghat in the morning darkness and watched devotees cleanse themselves in the cold misty waters.  The river was wider than I expected and the sun never broke through the thick fog.  It wasn't what I had imagined, but it was worthwhile to see the old city once.