Mae Sot

Transport was a rickety minibus scarcely larger than my Jeep Cherokee, 15 people packed inside and luggage strapped on the roof.  The windy road on the undulating mountainous terrain seemed almost too much for the old engine, as it would slow down to crawl on the steeper stretches.  Good thing the driver kept it in low gear on the way down.

Mae Sot didn’t seem to have much of an obvious draw, but it proved to be an illuminating experience -- life in a border town and the inequities in circumstances.  A fascinating mix of Thai, Chinese, Burmese, Indian, Karen, and several other minorities populated the Thai side.  Tribal weaves were just as common as longyis (something like a sarong worn by Burmese men), and many of the women applied the yellowish thanakha paste on their faces. 

It has the reputation lawlessness, mainly due to the illicit trade of teak and gems from Burma for consumer goods and cash out Thailand.  We rode bicycles to the river separating Mae Sot from Myawadi.  The decently stocked market was nearly devoid of buyers.  We watched ordinary people eking out an existence, on inflated inner tubes hand paddling across the river to offer contraband cigarettes, booze, or cheap labor.  The Thai army rangers with their AK’s look the other way, as long as they return by nightfall.

The gem stores in the center of town bustled only for part of the day, with gem traders inspecting stones through focal loops and moneychangers milling about.  A fair number of Westerners represented the other main activity – NGOs and charity work.  An hour outside of town was Mae La, a refugee camp still housing 6000 Burmese refugees.  MSF and the Mae Tao Clinic, run by a Burmese doctor, provide much of the healthcare, as malaria is endemic and TB is highly prevalent in the underserved migrant population.

The town proved pleasant and people friendly.  The night food stalls were crowded with way more than the usual fried crickets, caterpillar larvae, and other crunchies.  We found excellent tea leaf salad with fried peas, Burmese curry, roti, and samosas.

Jupiter and Venus shone brightly, and together with the sliver of a crescent moon, one evening formed a perfect smiley face on the dark sky.  So close to Burma, yet so far away...